术语解释：休眠键：又称电源键，位于机器顶部，用于打开关闭屏幕，或者长按后可提示关机的按钮；
Home键：位于机器下面下方，是唯一的圆形按钮，用于退出运行的应用程序；
1、在系统死机的情况下，进行软重启
只要按住电源键和Home键持续几秒钟，iPad将重新启动。要强制退出应用程序，只需按住Home键。
2、剪切，复制和粘贴功能
点选任何可编辑的文本4次，即可高亮选择相应的区块。
3、快速静音方法
最快速的方法来让扬声器没有声音，就是按住下调音量的按钮两秒钟，iPad将变为静音模式。
4、iPad屏幕截图
和iPhone一样，按下电源键和Home键半秒钟，屏幕内容将以png格式图片储存在照片库中。
5、快速地滚动网页
阅读至文章底部，想快速返回顶部，只需点选标题栏一次就行。
6、更多地预览您的邮件
打开“设置-邮件-联系人和通讯录”并在“预览”下选择“5行”。
7、在地图程序里，双击“我的位置”图标，隐藏的指南针功能就会出现。
8、方便地输入网址
在浏览器和E-mail中输入网址时，长按“.com”按钮会出现“.edu”、“.net”、“.cn”、“.org”等选项，无需再调整输入法进行输入。
9、按下Home键却又不想退出程序
继续按住Home键不要放开，持续大约5秒，就不会退出这个程序。
10、iPad出现异常不能关机
可以长按“Home键”和“电源键”直到iPad重启。
11、误操作输入字符需要删除
可以摇晃iPad机身，屏幕上就会弹出提示可以撤销你的输入。而再次摇晃，可以重做输入。
12、激活电子相框
按电源键打开屏幕，解锁iPad之前可以通过解锁条右侧的按钮激活iPad的电子相框功能。
13、Camera Connection Kit套件
iPad的Camera Connection Kit套件里的30针转USB接口是支持读卡器和USB键盘的，甚至可以接USB风扇。
14、App Store与iTunes Store
App Store支持中国帐号，但iTunes Store是不支持的，需要用美国帐号登录，切换帐号是在“设置-Store”里。
15、3G版iPad上网设置
3G版的iPad支持中国联通和中国移动的SIM卡剪卡使用，但是上网前需要设置APN。联通是3GNET，移动是CMNET，在“设置-蜂窝数据-APN设置”里填写。
16、强迫退出处于死机状况的应用程序
万一某个应用没有反应，按什么按钮都不能退出，这时可以尝试按住“休眠”键，直到屏幕出现“移动滑块来关机”信息，然后不管这信息，放开“休眠”键，换为按住“Home”键，5秒后，应用程序退出，并回到主页面。
17、控制后台播放的音乐
在打开某个应用的同时，后台通过iPod程序正在播放音乐，这时候如果希望不退出现有的应用，而又想改变播放的歌曲，播放音量，或直接进入iPod播放器，可以连续按两次“Home”键。系统会弹出一个小菜单让你调整。
18、iPad充电
在连接电脑的时候，如果屏幕关闭，则会进入充电状态，如果屏幕打开则会显示不在充电。
19、用Safari浏览器浏览网页技巧
用Safari浏览网页时，遇到可以打开的链接，可以选择长按住该链接，系统会弹出小菜单，让你选择”打开“，”在新页面中打开“，或者”拷贝“等选项。这样就不会造成每次按一个链接就自动打开一个新窗口，造成满屏都是窗口的杂乱无章。
20、打开音乐EQ功能会更费电
如果你打开了音乐播放器iPod的EQ功能（均衡器），打开后会令歌曲更悦耳动听，但在听音乐时一直打开EQ，则会耗费不少电量。可以通过“设置”里面的“iPod”菜单，关闭该"均衡器“。
21、iPad使用温度
iPad使用时，环境温度适合在0-35摄氏度之间，所以不要在太阳直射下使用。关机后设备存放环境的温度范围是，摄氏－20到45度，所以不使用时，不建议把iPad存放在炎热的车厢里。
22、禁止使用APP Store应用
如果你的iPad平时经常会有别人（或者是小孩）使用，这时候可通过“设置”里面的“通用”菜单下面的“限制”项目来禁止使用APP Store应用，以防别人误操作购买了付费应用。
23、使用日历时快速定位日期
如果要在日历中，要选择未来或者过去几年或十几年的某天，不断向前或向后点击年份很麻烦，另外一种办法是可以长按住年份，然后松开手，这时候年份会自动向前或向后变更。直到到达年限后，点击一次，便会自动停止。
24、VoiceOver
用设置通用里的辅助功能里VoiceOver可以朗读iBooks里的书籍。
25、导入免费的书籍文件
和iTunes以及iPod一样，iPad的iBooks应用也可以导入特定格式的自定义书籍。
26、使用外接键盘时打开虚拟键盘
如果iPad连接上了外置键盘，虚拟键盘便会自动处于隐藏的状态。如果需要虚拟键盘，可点击一下外置键盘的弹出按键。
Monday, August 16, 2010
采购投影的五个要点(ZT)
采购要诀一:请注意分辨率
浏览投影机的规格表你可以发现,分辨率是非常重要的参考数据。通常家用投影机如果由D-sub输入，分辨率最低也要1024X768，换成色差也要支持 480P或720P才能投出够水平的画质。另一个重点就是投影画面的比例，商务投影机大部分仅有4：3，但家用投影机需具备16：9和4：3两种。这并不 是说4：3无法用来欣赏电影，而是16：9的画面由4：3的格式播放需压缩成适合的比例。这样一来会使得影片中的物品失真，甚至画面内容直接被裁切。
采购要诀二:先看对比度，再考虑亮度
亮度的单位是流明，就商务投影机而言，考虑的要点是会议室大小，如果是较大的房间则需要选择流明较大的投影机；反之对亮度的要求就不用太高，否则一段时间 下来，太刺眼会让自己的眼睛加速疲劳。但家中房间则必须思考到并不是每一个空间都拥有“纯黑”的环境，任何一丝光线照射进来都会影响到投影机的画质与色 彩。但只调整亮度是不够的，因为还牵扯到另一个重要的功能——对比度，对比度越高表现出画面的立体感和层次感就越丰富。因此，一味强调亮度还不如把关注的 焦点转到对比度。
采购要诀三:接口的实用性
想获得高画质的影象，选对接口是非常重要的一环。绝大多数商务机型都配备D-sub和S-Video两种接口，主要是因为这些投影机日常使用是以连接电脑 为主；但在家庭环境中，最重要的信号源来自DVD播放机或游戏机，所以投影机需要再具备Composite,色差等，最好还要有HDMI和DVI，这样可 以支持HDPC输入数字影像信号。
采购要诀四:实用最重要
目前投影机在家庭用户当中的普及速度很快，当然这主要是万元以下的中低端产品市场。虽然很多厂商的主流产品都瞄准了这一成长速度最快的领域，但消费者自身 要有一个清醒的认识。对于家庭用户来说，选购投影机不像购买液晶显示器或平板电视，虽然1080P是极为理想的高清追求，但目前在投影机市场，1080P 高清投影机的价格动辄两，三万，不是普通家庭用户能够接受的。而且投影机灯泡的更换也是不小的费用支出。
因此我个人的建议是，对于家庭用户而言，购买投影机的主要使用需求是看电影和玩游戏，那么现阶段720P的标清机型就足够用了，而且相对于1080P的高 清规格来说，720P的很多机型售价不足万元，极具性价比。况且在实际的观看效果上，目前用户多以观看DVD电影为主。就算当你有足够多的高清片源的时 候，在距离荧幕3-5米的地方，720P与1080P的差别并没有平板电视那么大。
采购要诀五:散热口也不能忽视
由于投影机的主要部件——灯泡在使用时会发散大量热量，因此散热是非常最要的，否则严重影响灯泡寿命。对于家庭用户而言，很多人由于装修前没有作出充分的 打算，因此将投影机置于沙发前的茶几上的用户大有人在，这样一来如果投影机的散热口刚好设计在机身后方，甚至是侧面，那么对于你来说都是极为不爽的。因此 很多家用投影机就将散热口设计在了机身正前方，这一区域是绝对不可能影响到你的。因此，用户也要注意在使用中散热口周围的通风性，切忌用任何物体阻挡或覆 盖通风口。
浏览投影机的规格表你可以发现,分辨率是非常重要的参考数据。通常家用投影机如果由D-sub输入，分辨率最低也要1024X768，换成色差也要支持 480P或720P才能投出够水平的画质。另一个重点就是投影画面的比例，商务投影机大部分仅有4：3，但家用投影机需具备16：9和4：3两种。这并不 是说4：3无法用来欣赏电影，而是16：9的画面由4：3的格式播放需压缩成适合的比例。这样一来会使得影片中的物品失真，甚至画面内容直接被裁切。
采购要诀二:先看对比度，再考虑亮度
亮度的单位是流明，就商务投影机而言，考虑的要点是会议室大小，如果是较大的房间则需要选择流明较大的投影机；反之对亮度的要求就不用太高，否则一段时间 下来，太刺眼会让自己的眼睛加速疲劳。但家中房间则必须思考到并不是每一个空间都拥有“纯黑”的环境，任何一丝光线照射进来都会影响到投影机的画质与色 彩。但只调整亮度是不够的，因为还牵扯到另一个重要的功能——对比度，对比度越高表现出画面的立体感和层次感就越丰富。因此，一味强调亮度还不如把关注的 焦点转到对比度。
采购要诀三:接口的实用性
想获得高画质的影象，选对接口是非常重要的一环。绝大多数商务机型都配备D-sub和S-Video两种接口，主要是因为这些投影机日常使用是以连接电脑 为主；但在家庭环境中，最重要的信号源来自DVD播放机或游戏机，所以投影机需要再具备Composite,色差等，最好还要有HDMI和DVI，这样可 以支持HDPC输入数字影像信号。
采购要诀四:实用最重要
目前投影机在家庭用户当中的普及速度很快，当然这主要是万元以下的中低端产品市场。虽然很多厂商的主流产品都瞄准了这一成长速度最快的领域，但消费者自身 要有一个清醒的认识。对于家庭用户来说，选购投影机不像购买液晶显示器或平板电视，虽然1080P是极为理想的高清追求，但目前在投影机市场，1080P 高清投影机的价格动辄两，三万，不是普通家庭用户能够接受的。而且投影机灯泡的更换也是不小的费用支出。
因此我个人的建议是，对于家庭用户而言，购买投影机的主要使用需求是看电影和玩游戏，那么现阶段720P的标清机型就足够用了，而且相对于1080P的高 清规格来说，720P的很多机型售价不足万元，极具性价比。况且在实际的观看效果上，目前用户多以观看DVD电影为主。就算当你有足够多的高清片源的时 候，在距离荧幕3-5米的地方，720P与1080P的差别并没有平板电视那么大。
采购要诀五:散热口也不能忽视
由于投影机的主要部件——灯泡在使用时会发散大量热量，因此散热是非常最要的，否则严重影响灯泡寿命。对于家庭用户而言，很多人由于装修前没有作出充分的 打算，因此将投影机置于沙发前的茶几上的用户大有人在，这样一来如果投影机的散热口刚好设计在机身后方，甚至是侧面，那么对于你来说都是极为不爽的。因此 很多家用投影机就将散热口设计在了机身正前方，这一区域是绝对不可能影响到你的。因此，用户也要注意在使用中散热口周围的通风性，切忌用任何物体阻挡或覆 盖通风口。
Why My Next TV Will Be a Projector (ZT)
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2364812,00.asp
I've said for a long time that if you want to watch TV or movies at large size, an HD projector plus a good-quality screen is a much better answer—in theory at least—than an HDTV. Now theory is becoming reality.
Sometimes solutions to puzzles come in a flash, often when you aren't even trying to solve the puzzle. A case in point: My sudden realization that my next TV should be a projector.
I've been saying for a long time that if you want to watch TV or movies at large size, an HD projector plus a good-quality screen is a much better answer, in theory at least, than an HDTV. A projector's core advantage is that it will give you a much larger, high-quality image than a TV at a much lower price. But my ideal setup doesn't exist yet, so I had the idea filed under something I'd eventually do at some vague, future time. What suddenly hit me is that even though my ideal isn't available yet, perfectly usable solutions are.
There are several pieces to this particular puzzle. Start with one fact that you probably already know on some level but without ever thinking about the implications. If you're connecting your TV to a cable box or the equivalent, you're not using it as a TV; you're using it strictly as a display. You have no use whatsoever for the TV tuner inside the TV, because you're changing channels by way of your cable, FIOS, or satellite box.
The second key piece is that to a video source—whether it's a cable box, Blu-ray player, or iPod—a projector is just another display. Connecting to a projector is just as easy as connecting to a TV, and it gives you the same result: the ability to display the image.
Of course, you also need sound. Well, some projectors include sound systems. For those that don't, odds are you already have a sound system, in the form of a stereo, somewhere near your TV. We have three TVs in our house, with sound systems sitting next to two of them. (Guests have to do without a stereo, but I'm not thinking of putting a projector in the guest room either.)
The next key piece is one that most people don't realize: Chose the right screen and you can get a bright, high-contrast image, even in a well-lit room. Most people just assume that if there's much light in the room it will wash out the screen. If you think that's true, refile it right now under Things you know that ain't so. (As in: It ain't what you don't know that hurts you; it's what you know that ain't so.)
Without getting into the weeds, I'll just mention that there are screens that effectively swallow up ambient light, screens that can enhance contrast, and even screens that make an image brighter. The right screen will give you an eye-catching image even with the lights on. The right screen will give you an eye-catching image even with the lights on. (To get a sense of the variety of screen materials and how they vary, take a look at this list of materials from one screen manufacturer.)
What's stopped me from using a projector as a TV until now is that I've always thought in terms of an ultra short throw projector—meaning one with a lensing systems that lets it throw big pictures with the front of the projector just inches from the screen. With a standard lens, a projector has to be far enough from the screen so you have to worry about people casting shadows when they walk around the room. Ultra-short throw projectors avoid that problem.
I've reviewed several ultra-short-throw models over the years. (If you're curious about them, take a look at my reviews of the Hitachi CP-A100 ($2,495 street,
,), Sanyo PLC-XL50($2,500 street, 
), and NEC WT610 ($6,000 street, ) From the moment I saw the first one in action, I pictured it taking the place of a TV—sitting on top of a table-high cabinet, right in front of a screen mounted on the wall. Unfortunately, all of the models I've seen were designed as data projectors. This means that they're optimized for data images rather than video. So I've been biding my time, waiting for ultra-short throw home theater projectors.
That's all background. Here's my flash of insight: As I write this, I'm halfway through testing an Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8100. (Keep an eye out for the review.) As part of what we sometimes refer to as the touchy-feely side of testing, I wanted to visually compare the image quality directly with a reasonably good LCD TV in various lighting conditions. I lugged the projector to my family room at home, set it up on an ottoman, connected it to my FIOS box, set up a makeshift white screen, and made a point of comparing the TV and projector images at various times of day under different lighting conditions.
Image quality was pretty much what I expected. Even with my makeshift screen, the projector image was more than usable under all lighting conditions, including bright sunlight streaming through the windows. At night, with the lights dimmed or off, it was comparable to the TV.
More important, when I set the projector up, I immediately found out something I should have realized before. With the projector less than 6 feet from the screen—close enough so you don't have to worry much about people walking in front of it—it threw a 60-inch diagonal image. That's a lot smaller than the 90- to 100-inch diagonal that I always had in mind, but when you consider prices, the projector is easily competitive with a 60-inch TV. (And have you ever tried to move a 60-inch TV or mount it on a wall? It's not just the weight that's a problem; the size gets in the way too.)
With those two observations in mind, all the pieces clicked into place. The next time I go shopping for a TV, I'm bringing home a projector.
I've said for a long time that if you want to watch TV or movies at large size, an HD projector plus a good-quality screen is a much better answer—in theory at least—than an HDTV. Now theory is becoming reality.
Sometimes solutions to puzzles come in a flash, often when you aren't even trying to solve the puzzle. A case in point: My sudden realization that my next TV should be a projector.
I've been saying for a long time that if you want to watch TV or movies at large size, an HD projector plus a good-quality screen is a much better answer, in theory at least, than an HDTV. A projector's core advantage is that it will give you a much larger, high-quality image than a TV at a much lower price. But my ideal setup doesn't exist yet, so I had the idea filed under something I'd eventually do at some vague, future time. What suddenly hit me is that even though my ideal isn't available yet, perfectly usable solutions are.
There are several pieces to this particular puzzle. Start with one fact that you probably already know on some level but without ever thinking about the implications. If you're connecting your TV to a cable box or the equivalent, you're not using it as a TV; you're using it strictly as a display. You have no use whatsoever for the TV tuner inside the TV, because you're changing channels by way of your cable, FIOS, or satellite box.
The second key piece is that to a video source—whether it's a cable box, Blu-ray player, or iPod—a projector is just another display. Connecting to a projector is just as easy as connecting to a TV, and it gives you the same result: the ability to display the image.
Of course, you also need sound. Well, some projectors include sound systems. For those that don't, odds are you already have a sound system, in the form of a stereo, somewhere near your TV. We have three TVs in our house, with sound systems sitting next to two of them. (Guests have to do without a stereo, but I'm not thinking of putting a projector in the guest room either.)
The next key piece is one that most people don't realize: Chose the right screen and you can get a bright, high-contrast image, even in a well-lit room. Most people just assume that if there's much light in the room it will wash out the screen. If you think that's true, refile it right now under Things you know that ain't so. (As in: It ain't what you don't know that hurts you; it's what you know that ain't so.)
Without getting into the weeds, I'll just mention that there are screens that effectively swallow up ambient light, screens that can enhance contrast, and even screens that make an image brighter. The right screen will give you an eye-catching image even with the lights on. The right screen will give you an eye-catching image even with the lights on. (To get a sense of the variety of screen materials and how they vary, take a look at this list of materials from one screen manufacturer.)
What's stopped me from using a projector as a TV until now is that I've always thought in terms of an ultra short throw projector—meaning one with a lensing systems that lets it throw big pictures with the front of the projector just inches from the screen. With a standard lens, a projector has to be far enough from the screen so you have to worry about people casting shadows when they walk around the room. Ultra-short throw projectors avoid that problem.
I've reviewed several ultra-short-throw models over the years. (If you're curious about them, take a look at my reviews of the Hitachi CP-A100 ($2,495 street,
,), Sanyo PLC-XL50($2,500 street, ), and NEC WT610 ($6,000 street, ) From the moment I saw the first one in action, I pictured it taking the place of a TV—sitting on top of a table-high cabinet, right in front of a screen mounted on the wall. Unfortunately, all of the models I've seen were designed as data projectors. This means that they're optimized for data images rather than video. So I've been biding my time, waiting for ultra-short throw home theater projectors.That's all background. Here's my flash of insight: As I write this, I'm halfway through testing an Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 8100. (Keep an eye out for the review.) As part of what we sometimes refer to as the touchy-feely side of testing, I wanted to visually compare the image quality directly with a reasonably good LCD TV in various lighting conditions. I lugged the projector to my family room at home, set it up on an ottoman, connected it to my FIOS box, set up a makeshift white screen, and made a point of comparing the TV and projector images at various times of day under different lighting conditions.
Image quality was pretty much what I expected. Even with my makeshift screen, the projector image was more than usable under all lighting conditions, including bright sunlight streaming through the windows. At night, with the lights dimmed or off, it was comparable to the TV.
More important, when I set the projector up, I immediately found out something I should have realized before. With the projector less than 6 feet from the screen—close enough so you don't have to worry much about people walking in front of it—it threw a 60-inch diagonal image. That's a lot smaller than the 90- to 100-inch diagonal that I always had in mind, but when you consider prices, the projector is easily competitive with a 60-inch TV. (And have you ever tried to move a 60-inch TV or mount it on a wall? It's not just the weight that's a problem; the size gets in the way too.)
With those two observations in mind, all the pieces clicked into place. The next time I go shopping for a TV, I'm bringing home a projector.
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